Chilean-Inspired Comfort Food for the Holidays

Daniel Joelson, author of Chilenismos and Tasting Chile, is with us today to share a hearty traditional recipe perfect for holiday gatherings. Daniel writes:

My wife and I are excitedly packing our bags for a trip in late December to beautiful Chile, where we will bask in the sun and celebrate the New Year with fireworks on the beach as the Southern Hemisphere’s summer explodes into full swing.

But first, we need to cook some good old-fashioned Chilean comfort food as we try to keep bodies warm and bellies happy in frosty Washington, DC. With family and friends soon to descend upon our home for the holidays, we have started to arm ourselves to the hilt with a wonderful array of shellfish and different types and cuts of meats. All of these will come together so that we can titillate our guests with one of Chile’s national gastronomic treasures, the Curanto, which is typically eaten during the wintry months at big family get-togethers and for special occasions.

The most traditional version of Curanto is prepared over hot rocks in a burning pit in the ground. In fact, curantu means “abundance of rocks” in Mapudungun, the language of Chile’s indigenous Mapuche peoples. However, for the Curanto recipe below, rather than digging up a big hole in your backyard and charging it with heat, you only need a large pot and a stove. With the hearty flavors and the rich pork in this dish I like a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Syrah, which can stand up to the mighty Curanto.

Curanto en Olla (Pork and Shellfish Stew)
Serves 6

Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 chicken (1 1/2 to 2 pounds), cut into 4 pieces
1 pound pork chops (about 3 medium chops), cut into several pieces
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
12 ounces semi-spicy sausage, cut into 2 inch pieces
1 small onion, finely chopped into thin 1 inch strips
1 medium carrot, peeled and grated
1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped; or half red pepper and half green pepper
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup fresh celery leaves
2 cups white wine
8 mussels, in their shells, cleaned and scrubbed
8 littleneck clams, in their shells, cleaned and scrubbed
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

Directions:

1. Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides of the chicken and pork chops. Heat half of the oil in a pot over a medium flame. When hot, add the chicken pieces and lightly brown them on both sides. Remove the chicken from the pan and lightly brown the pork slices on both sides. Remove the pork and then brown the sausages on both sides.
2. Remove most of the fat from the pot, reserving 2 to 3 tablespoons, return the chicken, pork, and sausages to the pot and add the onion, carrot, bell pepper, garlic, celery leaves, 1 cup of water, and ¼ cup of the wine.
3. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat, shaking the pot, and adding a bit of wine every few minutes for a total of 20 minutes. Gradually add 1 ¾ cup more wine and ½ cup more water.
4. Add the mussels, clams, and parsley, continuing to mix. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve in a large bowl or casserole dish. Provide your guests with both a bowl and a plate so they can cut the meat.

Daniel Joelson is author of Hippocrene’s Tasting Chile: A Celebration of Authentic Chilean Foods and Wines

Pork Adobo

Banbeave

Filipinos often combine pork with chicken. Experiment with half pork and half boned chicken.

2 pounds pork, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 bay leaf
1 whole peppercorn, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon soy sauce, or to taste
1 tablespoon raw or brown sugar
8 cups cooked white rice


Sauté the pork and garlic in the vegetable oil for 5 to 6 minutes, or until browned. Add the vinegar, bay leaf, peppercorn, salt, soy sauce, sugar, and 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, and then simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the pork is tender. Serve over hot, fluffy rice. Yields 8 servings.

Pork Adobo
Onion Garlic Pork Adobo

2 pounds lean pork, cut in 2-inch pieces
1/3 medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, mashed
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
1 bay leaf, optional
1/2 cup vinegar, or enough to cover meat
2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
4 to 6 cups cooked white rice

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, and simmer with the cover slightly ajar until the pork is tender and all liquid evaporates. Be sure the pork is thoroughly cooked. If the meat is still tough or pink, add 1/2 cup hot water and continue simmering. When meat is tender, stir-fry the meat slightly in its own juices until light brown in color. Serve hot, with steamed rice. Yields 4 to 6 servings.

Picture courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

The New Year in the Philippines!

Our author Karen Hulene Bartell continues our Filipino Menu Series by giving us a look into what festivities and foods have become a tradition in the Philippines on New Years Eve and Day!

On New Year’s Eve, Filipino families make as much noise as possible by lighting firecrackers, beating pans, and blowing horns or whistles until midnight. The Media Noche is a snack served at midnight.

Media Noche New Year’s Eve Snack
Biko Sweet Rice
Salabat Ginger Tea

On New Year's Day, try something different. Roast a pig over hot coals and serve with traditional Pancit, Lumpia, and Adobo.

New Year’s Day Dinner
Whole Suckling Pig
Pancit Canton or Noodles Cantonese Style
Lumpia Shrimp and Vegetable Wraps
Lumpia Sauce Pork
Adobo Steamed Rice
Papaya Atsara or Green Papaya Pickles
Flan
Sweet Potato Flan
Star Fruit

Picture courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Tortang Talong (Eggplant Omelet)

Serves 4

4 Philippine eggplants
l tablespoon minced garlic
l/4 cup diced onion
8 ounces ground pork
l medium potato, diced
l/4 cup diced red bell pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste
4 eggs 1/4 cup vegetable oil

Boil the eggplants for 6 to 7 minutes, or until tender. Remove the skins. Set aside and keep warm. Sauté the garlic, onion, ground pork, potato, and bell pepper until the vegetables are tender and the pork is thoroughly cooked. Season with salt and pepper, and keep warm. Separate the egg whites from the yolks; beat the egg whites until stiff. Mix in the yolks. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium heat. Spoon 1/8 of the beaten egg mixture into the skillet, and let it cook until it forms a crusty bottom. Place an eggplant on top of the egg. Lightly spread the pulp and top with 1/4 of the pork-potato mixture. Add 1/8 of the beaten egg mixture to the skillet. Carefully turn over the omelet to cook the topside. Repeat with the remaining eggplants, pork-potato mixture, and eggs.

Salabat (Ginger Tea)

Serves 4

3 inches fresh ginger, thinly sliced
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

Heat 4 1/2 to 5 cups water with the ginger and brown sugar just until it comes to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Add more water to weaken the tea. Strain and serve hot or cold.

Picture courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Five-Colored Pork and Shrimp Rolls

To-gan is a dried variety of tofu that has been steeped in various spices and seasonings. Having absorbed those flavors, to-gan then imparts them to any dish to which it is added.

Serves 4.

½ pound pork tenderloin, thinly sliced
12 freshwater shrimp
1 quart salted, boiling water
2 tablespoons raw or light brown sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 cups mung bean sprouts
1 large cucumber
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
½ pound dried tofu (to-gan)
½ teaspoon sesame oil
10 (3-inch round) wonton wrappers (available at Asian markets)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons peanut powder (available at Asian markets), or peanut butter
Fresh parsley sprigs
3 green tomatoes, sliced

Bring the pork tenderloin and shrimp to a gentle boil in the salted water. Cook for 6 minutes or until the pork and shrimp are done. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon. When the pork and shrimp are cool enough to handle, finely chop the pork tenderloin and shell the shrimp. Mix with the sugar and soy sauce.

Blanch the bean sprouts in the boiling water. Remove and drain thoroughly. Slice the cucumber into pencil-sized strips. Salt and allow strips to drain for 5 minutes on paper towels. Slice the dried tofu into pencil-sized strips.

Oil the wonton wrappers sparingly. Working with one wrapper at a time, place it on a plate. Spread one-tenth each of the pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts on the wrapper. Add a cucumber slice, 2 tofu strips (arranged lengthwise), chopped parsley, and peanut powder. Roll tightly, slightly dampening the wonton ends to adhere. Slice in half width-wise. Arrange on a platter and garnish with fresh parsley sprigs and tomato slices. Continue until all the ingredients are used.

Picture courtesy of Karen Hulene Bartell. This post is a member of the Chinese Father's Day menu series.

Wonton Soup

Serves 4 to 6.

½ pound lean pork, chopped
1 tablespoon soy sauce, or to taste
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
6 tablespoons (10 ounces) frozen spinach, chopped and drained
½ pound (3½-inch square) wonton wrappers (available at Asian markets)
2 quarts boiling water
6 cups chicken broth
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh spinach leaves

Combine the pork, soy sauce, ginger, and salt in a large bowl. Fold in the cooked and drained spinach and mix well.

Place a teaspoon of the filling just below the center of each wrapper. Fold one end of the wonton over, tucking it beneath the filling. Dampen the edge to secure it. Roll it between your hands to form a small cylinder. Pull the 2 ends down beneath the roll until they overlap. Using damp fingers, pinch the ends firmly to secure.

Drop the wontons into rapidly boiling water. Bring again to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes, or until pork is thoroughly cooked, yet the wontons are still a bit firm. Drain the wontons and discard the water. Add the broth to the 5-quart pot and bring to a boil. Add the fresh spinach and wontons. Bring to a boil once more then serve immediately.

Picture courtesy of Wikimedia Commons. This post is a member of the Hungry Ghost Week menu series.

Clams in a Cataplana (Ameijoas na Cataplana)

Never cooked with a cataplana, or chatted over tea with friends about its role in the Portuguese Inquisition? You may end up doing both after reading this recipe from Cherie:

As we consider the cuisine of Portugal today, there are many ingredients that have come from the age of exploration. Cinnamon and curry spices were brought to Portugal by Vasco da Gama and became a staple for many of the egg sweets. Onions and garlic were brought to Portugal by the Romans, who established colonies there. They also brought wheat, olives, and grapes. The Moors who occupied Portugal for 500 years were responsible for planting almond, fig, apricot, lemon, and orange trees. They invented the cataplana, a clam-shaped pan for cooking.

A famous dish that resulted from the Moorish influence was Ameijoas na Cataplana (clams tossed with sausages and pork). The dish was created during the Inquisition to test adherence to Christianity, since the consumption of pork and shellfish was forbidden by Orthodox Judaism and Islam. The Moors are also credited for the egg desserts so popular in Portugal and throughout the Portuguese-speaking world. The nuns in convents were responsible for making these sweets and are credited for taking them to Brazil in the sixteenth century.

This recipe comes from the Ribatejo region of Portugal which is the area northeast of Lisbon along the Tagus River.

Serves 4 to 6.

Marinade:
1 head garlic, peeled and chopped
1 tsp. salt
½ c. white wine
6 tablespoons lemon juice
¼ cup white vinegar
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 bay leaf

Pork:
2 pounds pork tenderloin
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons bacon fat or lard
1 large yellow onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste

Clams:
4 pounds littleneck clams
4 tablespoons cornmeal
½ cup olive oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, smashed
4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon flour
1 cup minced fresh parsley

For the Clams: Wash the clams well and scrub with a brush. Place the clams in a pot with water to cover. Add the cornmeal and salt. Refrigerate for 10 hours. This will whiten the shells and give the clams a sweeter taste.

For the Marinade: With a mortar and pestle, purée the garlic and salt. Add the wine, lemon juice, vinegar, paprika, pepper, and bay leaf. Cut the pork into 1-inch cubes, rub well with the mixture and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

The following-day Clams: In a large pot, heat the olive oil and add the onion slices and garlic. Sauté over medium heat until the garlic is lightly browned. Remove the garlic. Add the tomatoes, flour, and pepper and continue cooking over medium-low heat until the vegetables are tender. Set aside.

For the Pork: Heat the olive oil and bacon fat in a large, heavy skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Drain the pork from the marinade, set the marinade aside, and in the skillet brown the pork quickly in small batches. Transfer the browned pork to a dish and keep warm. In the same oil sauté the onion and garlic until limp and golden, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste, reserved marinade, pork cubes and any juice that has accumulated. Mix well, cover and simmer on low for 30 minutes. Add the clams and the tomato mixture to the pork mixture and simmer until the clams open, about 15-20 minutes. The Portuguese usually serve this dish with French fried potatoes and white rice.

Note: If you have a cataplana, add all the ingredients to it at the point before you cook them for 30 minutes. Then add the clams and tomato mixture to cook and meld for the last 15 to 20 minutes. Some cooks use red wine instead of the white for the marinade.

Those Bandeirantes sure got around! Taste the best recipes from all the cuisines they left behind with Cherie's book.

Photos courtesy of Tom Wallace and Wikimedia Commons.